The Valencia region is, however, much, much more than rice and oranges, as delicious as they are. It is an amazing part of the world that\u2019s made up of delightful contrasts from the beaches along the Mediterranean to the fertile inland and mountainous areas to the west, the cosmopolitan city of Valencia juxtaposed against the old city and the ancient ones in the region like Morella and Sant Mateu.<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/healthyaging.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/10\/san-sebastian-spain.montage-opening-of-article-600.jpg\")
<\/a>(Clockwise from top left) Monasterio De Santa Maria. Photo: C. Worthington. Cycling along Benicassim beach. Photo: Valencia Tourism. Crujiente de manitas de cerdo con ceps (Crispy pork with mushrooms appetizer). Photo: El Mes\u00f3n del Pastor. Early morning walk along Benicassim Beach. Photo: C. Worthington<\/p><\/div>\n
Valencia Region for Active Travelers: Cyclists, Walkers, Foodies, Culture Seekers<\/h4>\n
The contrasts of\u00a0 the Region of Valencia, along with some of the world\u2019s most beautiful countryside, first piqued our interests as a place where my cycling-crazed husband and I could combine many of our varied interests.<\/p>\n
Full disclosure: After 35 years of marriage, I have realized that my surefire secret weapon for getting uplifted brows from my husband on a trip suggestion is to include cycling. Over the years, I have gotten his attention with such ideas as, \u201cLet\u2019s go to Aruba \u2026 and see the Tour of Aruba!\u201d Or, \u201cHow about Jamaica? Can\u2019t miss the Tour of Jamaica!\u201d And, of course there have been trips to the Tour de France many times as well as World Championships in places like Spain and Italy.\u00a0What can you do when your husband is a two-time Olympic cyclist and journalist in his own right?<\/p>\n
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<\/a>A stage of Spain’s La Vuelta bicycle race. Photo: C. Worthington<\/p><\/div>\n
And as crazy as this sounds, organizing a trip that weaves in cycling, combining some road rides, a day as a spectator to the starting or finish line of a big or even local bike race, an afternoon picnicking in the mountains, munching on local cheese and sausage slices, sipping a local wine while waiting for the pros to pass by, puts a very fun and different spin on travel.<\/p>\n
Our trips are not just cycling, cycling, cycling. We\u00a0look for places with beautiful beaches; countrysides and cities for walking, local, chef-owned restaurants, local tour guides to open our eyes to the history of the land, and special places to have a drink and watch the sunset.<\/p>\n
So, this year, when I realized La Vuelta<\/em>, Spain\u2019s world-class tour similar to the Tour de France, was in part passing through Valencia, I was on it! Ta-da\u2014Valencia! Our choice was made, hands down as a destination.<\/p>\n If you have not been to this part of Spain, Valencia should definitely be high up on your list. Here is the inside story of what a foodie-photographer-journalist discovered with her cycling-dimensional, journalist, active-traveling husband.<\/p>\n Valencia Region of Spain in purple on Mediterranean Sea. Map: Spain is made up of \u201cautonomous communities,\u201d or regions, as we would say in the states. The autonomous community of Valencia lies along the Mediterranean, is flanked by Catalonia to the north, Aragon and Castilla-La Mancha to the west, and Murcia to the south. Valencia is also the name of the region\u2019s capital, home to almost five million people.<\/p>\n The layered history and cultural influences began with the founding of the city of Valencia in 138 B.C.; passing through the rulings of the Carthaginians, Romans, Visigoths, and Arabs; was taken back by El Cid, followed by James the Conqueror; and later, the 19th century War of Independence; the dictatorship of Franco; and all the way up to as it is today as a democracy. During the 20th century, Valencia was a mostly industrial city. To visit it now, you would not know this at all with its stunning beaches, harbor, and impressive City of Arts and Sciences\u2014a cultural and architectural complex built in various stages from 1998 to 2009.<\/p>\n All this historical tapestry has greatly influenced Valencia from a cultural, architectural, and gastronomic perspective.<\/p>\n We caught up on this bit of Valencia\u2019s history before the six-hour plane ride from Philadelphia to Madrid, got our tiny Fiat 50 rental car at the massive Madrid Airport, and took off on the four-hour drive to Valencia on the coast.<\/p>\n Once out of Madrid, most of the drive was over wide-open, sparsely populated countryside through La Mancha on the A-3 superhighway.<\/p>\n Black silhouette image of bull along the highway. Photo: Deposit Photos, Philipus<\/p><\/div>\n Sure, you could fly into Valencia or take the high-speed train and sleep until you get there in under two hours from Madrid, but then you would miss the chance to really see the countryside along the way, through the region of Castilla-La Mancha, well-known as the backdrop for the 17th century novel Don Quixote<\/em> by Miguel de Cervantes.<\/p>\n Along the A-3 route, you will see vast plains, mountain ranges, castles, and fertile fields. You will be surprised to see a few giant, 46-story-high, black silhouette images of bulls along the highway. The bulls are apparently left over from a past sherry promotion that began in 1956. Rather than promoting the sherry, today, thanks to popular demand, the bull billboards have been painted black and preserved.<\/p>\n The other benefit of driving is the chance to stop by one of the roadside rest stops where you will be surprised to find full restaurants with quality food, including cheeses, local fruits, and vegetables and meats\u2014putting the New Jersey Turnpike rest stops to shame.<\/p>\n The unspoiled beach of Gandia at dusk with its gradual sandy and clean sea bottom. Photo: C. Worthington<\/p><\/div>\n First stop, Gandia<\/a>, a stunning beach town just 40 miles south of Valencia, and the very special Hotel La Gastrocasa<\/a>.<\/p>\n Gandia is known for its beautiful, unspoiled, four-and-a-half-mile beach that boasts a shallow, gradual sandy and clean sea bottom.\u00a0During the summer months, people bring picnics, games to play, and spend the entire day on this unspoiled beach.<\/p>\n (Left)La Gastrocasa pool and outdoor bar. (Right) Agust\u00edn G\u00f3mez welcomes guests at the pool bar. Photos: C. Worthington<\/p><\/div>\n Hotel La Gastrocasa is\u00a0a stylish, adults only, boutique hotel with just five beautifully decorated rooms and an in-town setting to die for.<\/p>\n Opened for just two years but with an amazing feel of historical elegance, this welcoming hideaway boasts a pool, outdoor bar, relaxing conversation areas, and a wine cellar with 150 types of wine.<\/p>\n (Left) La Gastrocasa breakfast buffet (Right) Agustin Gomez gives a tour of the hotel’s extensive wine cellar. Photos: C. Worthington<\/p><\/div>\n During the winter months, the Gastrocasa<\/em> (culinary house) offers cooking classes with its renowned chef, Juanvi Mas. And Agust\u00edn G\u00f3mez, who runs this family hotel, is welcoming and happy to talk about the area and its history. Oh, and if you\u2019re there during the summer, it\u2019s less than a mile (2,000 steps!) from the beach.<\/p>\n While Valencia has its paella, Gandia has fideua<\/em>, a dish like paella but made with small noodles.<\/p>\n Gandia claims the honor of being the birthplace of fideua<\/em>.<\/p>\n Lore has it that the first rendition of paella using noodles was done in Gandia and so fideua<\/em> has become the area\u2019s national dish. Fideua<\/em> is so popular that there are even competitions to see who can made the most flavorful dish.<\/p>\n (Clockwise from top left) Salva Bellver, our team member adding seasoning to fideua. Sauteeing shrimp. Winners of competition. The other members of the team: Carolyn Worthington, Desam Garcia and Olatz Megia<\/p><\/div>\n The most famous competition is the International Fideua Competition of Gandia <\/a>and Gastronomy, held each June and now approaching its 44th year. Attracting food lovers and chefs from around the world, the award is for the best chef of Gandia\u2019s \u201cemblematic\u201d dish.<\/p>\n Carolyn Worthington learning how to make fideua with chef in compeition. Photo: D. Chauner<\/p><\/div>\n Perfect way to end the day at the Bayren Hotel’s rooftop bar.<\/p><\/div>\n Within a few hours of arriving at Gastrocasa<\/em>, our hosts Desam Garcia and her boyfriend, Fernando Gallego, thought it would be great if we experienced a more casual, mini-version of the grand competitions. So\u2014never mind the jet lag\u2014we were whisked off to one such event on the patio of the RH Bayren Hotel and Spa<\/a>, overlooking the beach in the heart of Gandia.<\/p>\n Thanks to the gourmet chef and fideua impresario<\/em>, we were cajoled into competing against three other teams of visiting hotel guest families and their friends. We saut\u00e9ed our shrimp, mixed in our noodles, flavored our fideua<\/em> with saffron and paprika in the giant, wide, flat, round paella pan set over burners. It was great fun and amazing to taste the final results. All of us used the same ingredients but each dish still tasted slightly different.<\/p>\n Best of all, the team with a wide-eyed little girl won. I think she would have been heartbroken if she hadn\u2019t!<\/p>\n This hotel, by the way, is a perfect place to stay for a beach vacation, complete with rooms overlooking the beach, a spa, pool, and with even bicycles to rent.<\/p>\n Pleasantly full and bleary-eyed from the trip, we ended the day with a cerveza at the rooftop bar with a spectacular view of the beach.<\/p>\n Ducal Palace, the site for the evening’s dinner. Photo: Valencia Tourism<\/p><\/div>\n For our next and final night in Gandia, Desam and Fernando (an avid cyclist as it turned out) took us\u00a0on a unique and very special evening tour outside and dinner in the 14th century Ducal Palace of Gandia<\/a>, formerly the home of the royal dukes of Gandia and later from 1485, the Borgia family.<\/p>\n Welcome to the Palace with chamber music<\/p><\/div>\n If your history is rusty, you may perhaps know the Borgias from Netflix?<\/p>\n This Spanish family was prominent in political and ecclesiastical arenas during the 15th and 16th centuries. They produced two popes, Alfons de Borja, ruling as\u00a0Pope Callixtus III\u00a0from 1455\u20131458, and\u00a0Rodrigo Lanzol Borgia, as\u00a0Pope Alexander VI, from 1492\u20131503. It was Pope Alexander VI who inspired the Netflix series The Borgias<\/em>, filled with stories of incest, adultery, bribery, murder, and lots of drama.<\/p>\n The Ducal Palace is a stunning backdrop for a special evening under the stars on certain nights of the summer. Called \u201cBorgian Dinners of the Senses,\u201d the event is an effort to combine history, culture, and gastronomy in the unique setting.<\/p>\n First, we met with other diners as a group outside the palace in Escuelas P\u00edas Square to hear some history from a local guide and then were welcomed into the palace while being serenaded by chamber music.<\/p>\n Evarist Miralles, twice named best chef in Spain, prepared an unforgettable meal of local ingredients with a creative flair.<\/p>\n Our menu was four courses of local specialties such as appetizers of local sardine and olives, duck with a splash of orange, the local specialty \u201cjelly\u201d soup, followed by a main course of lamb and eggplant with a hint of lavender, and also a dessert of wonderful sweets. All of this goes for around $90.<\/p>\n We ate in the most amazing outdoor courtyard within the high walls of the palace. I couldn\u2019t help but marvel at the wealth and opulence of the long Borjia rein from so many centuries ago.<\/p>\n But I had to chuckle as my husband and Fernando chattered on, comparing Spanish and American cycling and also discussing our most infamous icon Lance Armstrong!<\/p>\n Real Monasterio De Santa Maria de la Valldigna<\/p><\/div>\n After two nights in Gandia and fading jetlag, it was time to head up the coast to the city of Valencia. But not before making a few side trips to Real Monasterio De Santa Maria de la Valldigna<\/a>, the famous rice fields around El Saler<\/a>, and the popular village itself, just five minutes from Valencia and in the sprawling Natural Park of l’Albufera<\/a>, site of Spain\u2019s largest lake and a birder\u2019s paradise.<\/p>\n We followed Desam and Fernando by car to the countryside just northwest of Gandia to the imposing 14th century Cistercian monastery in Valldigna, a valley about 30 miles south of Valencia.<\/p>\n Cycling is a way of life in Spain with plenty of safe roads and bike-friendly drivers of cars. Photo: Cycloturismo; C. Worthington<\/p><\/div>\n The first thing my husband noticed was the steady stream of cyclists riding through the bordering town Simat and congregating at an outdoor cafe in Abadia Square, across from the entrance to the monastery. Fernando told us (remember he\u2019s one of them), that this area has some of the most popular weekend cycling routes around Valencia, with many backroads through the surrounding hills and valleys of Valldigna.<\/p>\n The Monasterio De Santa Maria is a step back in time when Spain was made up of walled cities and villages around an imposing central cathedral. Under restoration by the Valencia Regional Government since 1991, the monastery went through construction phases, ranging from gothic design in the 14th century in accordance with Cistercian canons to the baroque style of the 17th and 18th centuries.<\/p>\n El Saler. Photo: Valencia Tourism. VisitValencia.com<\/p><\/div>\n On the way to El Saler, our lunch destination, we drove through Albufera National Park<\/a> with what at first appeared to be green grasses (if you visit in August). A closer look revealed it to be endless rice paddies. In fact, some 250 square miles of them, something we\u2019d never expected to see within a few kilometers of Valencia. As we learned, rice has been grown there for over a millennium.<\/p>\n Rice harvester: “And now we go to lunch!”<\/p><\/div>\n It was truly amazing that these two men had been weeding by hand all morning in this vast rice field. And still, they were smiling from ear to ear. We figured while one man\u2019s flood is a disaster, wetlands are another man\u2019s gold.<\/p>\n (Top) Paella with lobster (Bottom) Chef Ma Jose, Carolyn Worthington, David Chauner and Carmen<\/p><\/div>\n We arrived in the bustling village of El Saler on the edge of La Albufera Natural Park<\/a> and a favorite weekend destination for locals. The main drag bustles with groups and families who pack the many bars and restaurants, one of the most popular of which was Casa Carmina<\/a>, our destination.<\/p>\n This cozy restaurant, clearly a favorite of the locals, has been open since 1988 and is today managed by the daughters, Carmen and Ma Jose, of the couple who started it all. This was a perfect spot to taste local seafood and vegetable appetizers, along with several different types of paella, including seafood, vegetable, and mixed. We ate like the locals: It\u2019s polite to eat straight out of the pan!<\/p>\n We were learning more and more about how important the farm-to-table movement is in the region, one that Valencia Tourism calls the “Del Tros al Plat” program.<\/p>\n With busy sightseeing and a late afternoon lunch behind us, we looked forward to checking into our next hotel, AC Hotel Valencia<\/a>, \u00a0a comfortable Marriott property in downtown Valencia, midway between the old city and the modern beachfront.<\/p>\n Cathedral in Valencia city. Photo: Valencia Tourism. Visit Valencia.com<\/p><\/div>\n To most\u00a0Americans, Madrid, Barcelona, and Seville are the main cities of Spain. Less discovered but arguably just as historic, cosmopolitan, and\u00a0exuding Spanish flare is Valencia.<\/p>\n Our comfortable hotel clearly catered to tourists and was conveniently located near major shopping and a five-minute walk from Valencia\u2019s City of Arts and Sciences<\/a>. Although you are in a city, the beach is a stone’s throw away. We found Malvarrosa Beach, for example, to be a five-minute drive away and only a 15 minute cab ride to the old city. So, we ditched our car in the underground parking garage and then decided to get around by foot and cab for the next two days.<\/p>\n Aerial view of Turia Gardens, formerly a river bed. Photo: Valencia Tourism. VisitValencia.com<\/p><\/div>\n We were up at the crack of dawn for a brisk walk along the more than six-mile Garden of the Turia a few blocks from our hotel. This greenway in the middle of the city was once the bed of the Turia River.<\/p>\n Scenes from Turia Gardens. (Left to right) Early morning walkers. One of many stone bridges. Calisthenics station. Photos: C. Worthington<\/p><\/p>\n How this greenway came to be is a fascinating story. For years, the river would overflow. The last straw was in 1957. The Turia flooded the city once again, causing loss of life and significant property damage. The \u201cGreat Flood of Valencia\u201d resulted in a decision by the government to divert the river completely, leaving behind a riverbed that was turned into a sunken park for cyclists and pedestrians. Today, throughout the park, there are many ponds, gardens, fountains, and calisthenics stations.<\/p>\n One of the many sculptures in Turia Garden. Photo: C. Worthington<\/p><\/div>\n Dawn turned out to be the best time to enjoy the park (for those who did not stay out until the wee hours last night!), along with other early rising cyclists, joggers, and dog walkers. It is very safe and traffic free as the cars pass overhead via the many stone bridges bypassing the area.<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n Josep\u00a0Alberola, tour guide<\/p><\/div>\n Guided Tour of Old Valencia<\/strong><\/p>\n You can scour the guidebooks, Yelp, and Trip Advisor, but nothing beats a one-on-one guide to trim hours of research time and to make a destination come alive.<\/p>\n Ours was Josep Alberola, a professional world traveler and walking encyclopedia when it came to the history of Valencia. He marched us through the maze of the historic old city and entertained us with picturesque anecdotes about such spots as the Silk Exchange, the Central Market, the Cathedral of Valencia, and more.<\/p>\n Some quick not-to-miss highlights:<\/p>\n Ornate ceiling of Silk Exchange<\/p><\/div>\n The Silk Exchange (La Lonja de Seda<\/em>) was built in the 15th century and was the epicenter of the trading of the famous Valencian silk, which was sold throughout Europe. Climb the 144 stone steps for a sensational view of the city from the tower.<\/p>\n Catedral de Valencia. Photo: Valencia Tourism<\/p><\/div>\n Mimicking the changing of the rulers throughout Valencia\u2019s history, the cathedral was built on top of an Islamic mosque, which was built on a Visogothic cathedral, which was constructed over a Roman Temple.<\/p>\n Holy Chalice on display in Catedral de Valencia. Photo: C. Worthington<\/p><\/div>\n On display is the \u201cHoly Chalice,\u201d which is said to have been the actual cup Jesus that used during the Last Supper.<\/p>\n Serrans Gate. Photo: C. Worthington<\/p><\/div>\n One of 12 gates of the ancient Valencia wall, the Serrans Gate dates back to the 14th century. The wall was sadly torn down in 1865, but this is one of the remaining gates.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n La Casa Mas Estrecha, narrowest building in Europe. Photo: C. Worthington<\/p><\/div>\n Literally translated, La Casa Mas Estrecha<\/em> is the narrowest building and wins the honor for all of Europe. At one time, the house was actually occupied by a family. But today, it has joined the bar next door. It is only 42 inches wide\u2014not wide enough for today\u2019s flat screen TV to fit across!<\/p>\n A little over 30 years ago, ancient Roman thermal baths were discovered below this more than 2000-year-old ancient square by metro line workers. Today, the thermal baths can be viewed through a glass floor, shimmering below shallow water from the street level.<\/p>\n Tired from a long day on our feet, we were happy to tuck into one of the many touristy sidewalk cafes just outside our hotel for wine, cerveza, and salad.<\/p>\n Refreshed and ready to go for day two in Valencia, it was time for a serious exploration of Paella, the famous Spanish dish that seems to have many \u201cauthentic\u201d variations.<\/p>\n Paella cooking classmates at Escuela de Arroces y Paella<\/p><\/div>\n A Little History of Paella and What I Did Not Know…<\/strong><\/p>\n Paella may be considered the national dish of Spain, but Valencia claims it as its own.<\/p>\n It’s said that paella was born in the outskirts of the city of Valencia. Its origins (as those of many other rice dishes) lie in the rice paddies around Albufera Lake that we visited. As the Moslems conquered the Iberian Peninsula in the 7th century A.D. they brought with them several new cultivations, among those, was the rice, brought from China.<\/p>\n Albufera Lake provided the perfect conditions for the cultivation of rice, since it is a plant that needs plenty of water and mild weather conditions to grow. And so, a culture of rice grew in the area and which was followed by the Christians after they took back the region during the 12th century. Although recipes of paella seem to have been around since the late Middle Ages, the current recipe for the paella\u00a0appears to date back to the 17th\/18th century, when ingredients like the tomato (some peeled tomatoes are fried and mixed with the broth and the rice), were brought from the Americas and began to be more widely used in Europe.<\/p>\n I\u2019ve been making it since the \u201970s but had an awakening when I discovered that authentic paella for purists is not what I\u2019d thought.<\/p>\n This led me to sign us up for a unique paella cooking course at Escuela de Arroces y Paella<\/a>, an experience that I highly recommend for anyone who really wants to explore the art of making this traditional dish.<\/p>\n The Central Market is a must visit for foodies. The massive building was built in the early 1900s and is an architectural marvel with its giant columns, vaulted ceiling and some 1000 food stalls. It is the ultimate farmers market.<\/p>\n Domingo Rodriguez Lopez, La Parada de las Especias, selling saffron for the class paella.<\/p><\/div>\n Family photo on display depicting one of the four generations of the family business that began 125 years ago.<\/p><\/div>\n In between were several magical hours of conjuring the perfect pure Valencia paella, complete with just-right heating, chopping, tossing, boiling, sniffing, and simmering as directed by Chef Beni, a tall, ruggedly handsome Valencian who had us dancing and singing around the stoves in order to inject each pan with love and happiness.<\/p>\n Just like many Texans say \u201cchili should have no beans,\u201d we discovered that the original paella of Valencia is made with white rice (they use la bomba rice), chicken and rabbit (cut in small pieces and must have the bone so thighs are good), fresh beans (green and white like lima beans), tiny snails, flavored with saffron (a pinch, please!) and paprika, and also seasoned with salt.<\/p>\n Is it done yet?<\/p><\/div>\n That\u2019s it. No garlic, no onion, and no chorizo!<\/p>\n Paella with shrimp, snails, beans, tomatoes …. simmering to a finish<\/p><\/div>\n We learned that there are other types, of course, like seafood paella, vegetable paella, and mixed paella. But this one from Valencia is considered the standard.<\/p>\n The secrets are in the shallow pan, using the right rice to absorb the water, choosing meat with the bone for flavor, and patience.<\/p>\n The bomba rice is better than regular long-grain rice because of its ability to absorb much more water than long grain, while keeping its structure and not turning to mush.<\/p>\n Finished paella. The best part some say is the crusty bottom.<\/p><\/div>\n Best part, Valencians say, is the crusty bottom of the rice in the pan. Of course, you must have the right paella pan. It helps if you have a gas burner to fit the large pan or do this on the barbecue.<\/p>\n Paella is a one-pot and one-serving dish meal. Local custom is to share the paella, eating it directly from the pan. Smack the hand of the person who dares eat from your side!<\/p>\n Inspired by a day immersed in Valencia history and culture, we decided to end it with a late night supper of tapas and found the perfect spot in the Ensanche district, just a few blocks south of the old city, where there were many good choices.<\/p>\n There is no better example of modern Spanish culture than Valencia\u2019s City of Arts and Sciences, a complex of impressive buildings that\u2019s located at the southern end of what was the Turia river bed where we spent most of our final day in Valencia.<\/p>\n Here are some of the highlights:<\/p>\n L\u2019Hemisferic IMAX Cinema<\/a>, planetarium, and laserium. Looking like a giant eye, it has been dubbed \u201cthe eye of knowledge.\u201d<\/p>\n El Museu de les Ci\u00e8ncies Pr\u00edncipe Felipe<\/a>, a science museum that looks like the skeleton of a whale.<\/p>\n L\u2019Umbracle<\/a>, a sculpture and plant garden featuring native plants.<\/p>\n L\u2019Oceanografic<\/a>, considered the largest aquarium in Europe. The design displays the creativity of Felix Candela with the aquariam built in the shape of a water lily.<\/p>\n El Palau de les Arts Reina Sofia<\/a> is a performing arts center and opera house.<\/p>\n America\u2019s Cup Building, known as Veles I Vents<\/p><\/div>\n No visit to Valencia is complete without a stop here. Its port is considered the largest on the western coast of the Mediterranean and is Spain\u2019s second busiest in terms of seagoing traffic.<\/p>\n Vintage America’s Cup sail boat from 2007<\/p><\/div>\n Probably most famous for hosting the 32nd America\u2019s Cup in 2007, Valencia\u2019s port is a great and often rare example of how a city successfully turned the opportunity of a major sporting event into a sustainable way to beautify its landscape and seaport.<\/p>\n The port is now divided into two sections with one side exclusively for pleasure craft and the other for its maritime industry. A new harbor was built, complete with buildings for each of the racing teams.<\/p>\n The America’s Cup Building, known as\u00a0Veles I Vents, the centerpiece of the harbor is a four level, spectacular structure of seemingly floating floors. The name was inspired by a 15th century poem by Ausias March about the strength of the wind. Designed by British architect, David Chipperfield, the building has won numerous architectural awards.<\/p>\n We took time to visit the exhibition \u201cThe House of the Americas Cup\u201d to learn about the history of the race from 1851 to 2013 and to enjoy the amazing views.<\/p>\n Seafood starters to be found at La Maritima, mussels and sea urchin. Photo: C. Worthington<\/p><\/div>\n We found a spectacular view of the marina and had an amazing lunch at, La Maritima, a five-star restaurant and National Gastronomy Award-winner led by the Andres Salvador family.<\/p>\n You can enjoy the Mediterranean breeze on the deck and watch the sailboats pass by through the massive glass windows. We couldn\u2019t resist the fried salty plantain chips with a cold local beer to start. We tried the local seafood, which is its specialty, including the mussels and sea urchin.<\/p>\n La Maritima<\/a>\nMarina of Valencia\nMuelle de la Aduana s \/ n, 46024 Valencia<\/p>\n One of the many bars actually in the beach<\/p><\/div>\n Saler Beach<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n Wanting to finish out our day with a cocktail on the Mediterranean, we grabbed a cab from our hotel and pointed out Saler Beach, about eight miles from town, on a piece of paper. Thank goodness for GPS and sign language when your high school Spanish fails to kick in\u2026<\/p>\n We were surprised, not only can you eat along the Saler Beach, you can cozy up to the bar on the beach<\/em> to sip a mojito with the sand between your toes.<\/p>\n There are numerous beach bars plunked right in the sand, complete with bar stools and comfy chairs that are perfect for watching the sun set while sipping a mojito.<\/p>\n Celler del Roure vineyards<\/p><\/div>\n Valencia\u2019s Wine Region<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n As we left Valencia for our final leg of the trip, we of course had to taste the wine of at least one of the more than 17 wineries across 150 square miles covering the 10 municipalities surrounding Valencia.<\/p>\n Spain boasts some 26 wine routes. And Valencia is no exception to the production of great wine. The official route for the Valencia area is \u201cRuta del Vino Utiel Requenca<\/a>.\u201d<\/p>\n The region produces mainly red and ros\u00e9 wines from grapes such as Bobal, Tempranilla, and Garnacha and also delicious whites made from the chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, and macabeo grapes.<\/p>\n The drive to Celler del Roure<\/a>, a small producer of excellent red wines, reminded us of the Simi and Napa Valleys of California, a dry sunny climate with acres and acres of well-tended vineyards and, as my husband noticed, great cycling roads!<\/p>\n Selection of Celler del Roure’s wines in their boutique<\/p><\/div>\n Bearing the symbol of the dragonfly, Celler del Roure got its start in 1996 as a small family winery. Today, it\u2019s on a mission to learn more about winemaking from its ancestors by researching old methods of using buried clay jars in its cellar from the 17th century. They say the buried mud jars may be as good as or even better than French and American oak barrels.<\/p>\n We were lucky to have a private tour of the cellar and a tasting of Celler del Roure’s wines.<\/p>\n It\u2019s interesting to note that toward the end of the 19th century, an epidemic wiped out most of the vineyards in France and throughout Europe, thanks to botanists from England who brought cuttings from America. Unfortunately, the phylloxera, a microscopic insect, hitched a ride and caused utter devastation to the grape vines. Spain, however, was spared. Something to think about should you ever try to sneak local plants into your luggage.<\/p>\n You can buy some of the Celler del Roure’s wines in New York through the importer European Cellars<\/a>. Do check out the winery’s\u00a0Facebook page<\/a> for a fun video on crushing grapes by \u201cfoot.\u201d<\/p>\n Vuelta Espa\u00f1a 2017. Photo: ASO Unipublic, Gomez Sport, Luis Angel Gomez<\/p><\/div>\n As we saw every day, the region around Valencia is a perfect cycling country. From the seemingly ubiquitous well-marked bike paths in cities to the quiet country roads that led to the vineyard we visited, rolling countryside, and winding passes through the mountains, cyclists are everywhere.<\/p>\n Start of the Vuelta in Benicassim, one of the tour stage starting points. Chris Froome, Team Sky and multiple Tour de France winner, sits on the start line ready for the race. Photo: C. Worthington<\/p><\/div>\n So, as we left the wine country and headed north to the coast, my husband finally got his wish, a chance to witness Spain\u2019s most famous cycling event\u2014La Vuelta<\/a>.<\/p>\n Of course, everyone has heard of the Tour de France. But how many know that “Le Tour” is just one of three, 21 day “Grand Tours” of cycling that take place every year? The Giro d’Italia in May and the Vuelta d\u2019Espana in August and September bookend the Tour. And they all feature the world’s top professional cyclists racing through each country\u2019s amazing countryside. Not only are they the three most grueling endurance sports contests on the planet, but they can also lay realistic claim to being the backdrop for the most unique travel shows ever conceived.<\/p>\n The Vuelta is the youngest of the three, having a history dating back to 1935. This year, 198 of the world’s best pros in 22 teams raced for 21 days and 2,044 miles throughout Spain. Cities and regions throughout the country pay big euros to host a stage for its economic windfall and international recognition.<\/p>\n Benicassim beach. Photo: Valencia Tourism<\/p><\/div>\n Benicassim<\/a> is a gorgeous beach town along the Costa del Azahar<\/em>, which literally means Orange Blossom Coast.<\/p>\n Since the town is hugged by the Desert de les Palmes mountain range, the strong north winds are blocked. Hence, you do not see a lot of hotels with glass windscreens up everywhere like you do at some along the Mediterranean.<\/p>\n Of course, the best thing to do here is to spend a day at the beach on the clean white sand and in the warm sea with the gentle waves.\nBut not for us! Tomorrow, on a hot day in August, Benicassim would play host to the start of stage five of the 21-day Vuelta a Espa\u00f1a, and we couldn\u2019t miss it.<\/p>\n THALASSO HOTEL EL PALASIET. PHOTO: THALASSO HOTEL EL PALASIET<\/p><\/div>\n But first, our hotel\u2026<\/p>\n At the north end of the broad Almadraba Beach sits the hillside spa of El Palasiet<\/a>. Known for its indoor and outdoor salt-water pools, this 19th century classic villa is surrounded by magnificent gardens and great views of the beach that\u2019s only 60 steps away.<\/p>\n Totally remodeled between 2002 and 2005, there is no better place from which to start and finish (or watch!) a leisurely or vigorous bike ride. We arrived in the late afternoon and, from the sea-facing balcony of our comfortable suite at El Palasiet, we saw a steady stream of cyclists from easy pedaling families to lycra-clad enthusiasts riding the bike path.<\/p>\n After a long day in the car, we opted for a couple of glasses of fine Valencia region wine and a leisurely early dinner by the poolside.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Via Verde del Mar, bicycle path along the sea. Photo: Valencia Tourism<\/p><\/div>\n Cyclists and walkers love the Via Verde del Mar<\/a> (Greenway of the Sea),\u00a0which runs about 3.5 miles between Benicassim and Oropesa del Mar, another seaside town. This dedicated cycling-walking path along the beach is part of Spain\u2019s rails-to-trails program, \u00a0sponsored by the Foundation of the Spanish Railways<\/a>. This particular path has a long illuminated tunnel to ride through, metal bridges to ride over, and amazing views. It is perfect for novice riders since it is very flat and smooth.<\/p>\n For those wanting longer rides, you can check out the cycling website Map My Ride<\/a>, which lists over 69 great routes from Benicassim.<\/p>\n There are more than 4,700 miles of railroad beds in Spain that are no longer in use and are part of the program, started in 1993, that turns them into paths for cycling and walking. Over 1,600 miles have been converted today at the national level, led by the Greenways of Spain<\/a>.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n [awesome-gallery id=6733] Benicassim, one of the stage starts of La Vuelta<\/p><\/p>\n We had passes to the pop-up start village in the center of Benicassim where all the pro teams, officials, and fans come together for the day\u2019s start. Sponsor tents, stage performers, huge team buses, and even an official barber occupy race watchers for an hour or two before the whole entourage of official cars, motorcycles, and camera crews eventually pull out, surrounding the pack of lean racers.<\/p>\n [awesome-gallery id=6739] The race takes off from Benicassim followed by entourage of official vehicles, amateur cyclists and helicopters<\/p><\/p>\n It\u2019s a loud, colorful scene as they pull away from the start to carnival music, blaring car horns, and the whump, whump, whump<\/em> of television helicopters overhead.<\/p>\n To get the full flavor of this amazing event, we picked La Serratella, a small village just past the summit of the biggest hill climb, 78 miles into the 110 miles that would be covered in the day\u2019s stage. We headed there by car, making sure that we were hours ahead of the race when we joined the race route into the mountains.<\/p>\n This is where the popularity of Spanish cycling is most obvious. On our way up the mountain, we passed hundreds of club cyclists who were pedaling to the top and also less active fans who were setting up awnings and picnic tables on the switchback turns.<\/p>\n La Serratella was an out-of-the-way, small mountain village with only one smoky caf\u00e9 where all the cycling fans converged to wait for the riders. One big-screen TV projected the live action from the road below, and the caf\u00e9 owners hustled to fill orders on what had to be their biggest day of the year.<\/p>\n [awesome-gallery id=6747] <\/p>\n <\/p><\/p>\n Excitement built as word spread that the riders were coming. Suddenly, the uphill stretch of road through town was packed with people on both sides. Cheers erupted every time an official motorcycle or flashing car came through. Most of the drivers waved, but some, intent on their solemn missions, looked straight ahead.<\/p>\n And then, the first racers. A group of eight, riding impossibly fast up and through town, were met with hysterical cheering and finger pointing at one of the recognized stars. They disappeared without a backward look. The big pack came through five minutes later to even more cheering and finger pointing.<\/p>\n Then it was all over. Fans dispersed and the few who were left behind clapped for the stragglers. Traffic cones and caution tape were taken down, and most everyone there headed back down the mountain, leaving the villagers of La Serratella with something to talk about for years to come.<\/p>\n We talked about the race on the way back to Benicassim and the spa at Hotel El Palasiet. The riders would race on for another two hours today and finish up the coast in Alcossebre. They would race for another 17 days around Spain before finishing in Madrid over two weeks later.<\/p>\n A few hours in the spa sounded a lot better.<\/p>\n On our way to La Serratella to catch the race, we had seen what appeared to be a picturesque hilltop fortress off in the distance and a sign pointing to it\u2014Morella.<\/p>\n The place beckoned. We decided to check it out on our last morning\u2026<\/p>\n Morella. Photo: C. Worthington<\/p><\/div>\n As we drove along the CV-14 on the clear August morning, Morella<\/a>, the ancient walled city perched on a hilltop came into view. I felt like I had stepped back into the 1961 movie El Cid<\/em>, which starred Charlton Heston and Sophia Loren.<\/p>\n Like in the movie, many battles were held over this town because of its prime property and location between the Ebro River and the Valencian coastal plain. The Greeks, the Romans, the Visigoths, and even the Moors just had to have it.<\/p>\n Even the Plague grabbed it but was ousted in the 17th century after 20 years of clenching the city with an iron fist. Lore goes that someone brought a statue of the Virgin Mary to Morella and paraded it all around with the result of ending the plague. Every six years, a festival to celebrate this feat, called \u201cthe Sexenni festival,\u201d complete with a procession and dancing, is held for nine days in August.<\/p>\n [awesome-gallery id=6760] <\/p>\n <\/p><\/p>\n Morella was at one time a popular place to live. In the 14th and 15th centuries, the population was 9,000. Today, there are some 2,500 people who live there and who primarily focus on tourism.<\/p>\n We had the chance to be guided through the ancient town by Angela, a contemporary, upbeat 20-something-year-old guide who gave us a flavor of a place that is much more than just historic sites.<\/p>\n Angela told us that for just a small population, there is a lot going on there with four butcher shops, 10 hairdressers (that\u2019s like 240 customers per shop if they share), 15 to 20 bars, and 15 or so restaurants.<\/p>\n [awesome-gallery id=6766] Narrow streets are often connected by narrow staircases. Alter of Saint Mary’s Church. Morella blankets for sale<\/p><\/p>\n With the winding narrow streets filled with staircases to the next street, the stunning views are what make Morella very special.<\/p>\n The young people are hip, too. While many have families in the tourism business, they are well-educated and get out to local towns and beaches just like any other upwardly mobile youth their ages.<\/p>\n Thanks to Angela, too, I now know what vale<\/em> means in Spanish, and I can add it to my glossary of Spanish words and phrases. (It means \u201cokay\u201d and everyone says it, just like we do in English).<\/p>\n Highlights to not miss here are the Sanctuary of the Virgen of Vallivana, Castillo de Morella<\/em> (Morella Castle), the aqueduct, La Iglesia de Santa Mar\u00eda Morella<\/em> (Saint Mary\u2019s Church), Convento de San Francesc Morella<\/em> (St. Francis\u2019 Convent), and the Morella Museo Temps de Dinosaures.<\/p>\n For shopping, don\u2019t miss out on the local cheese and honey, flaons<\/em> (a roundish, sweet pastry), and also pick up a horizontally striped, multicolored Morella blanket\u2014a wool and cotton blanket that reflects the heritage of wool textiles dating back to the 13th century.<\/p>\n Visit Morella\u00a0Tourism<\/a> to learn more.<\/p>\n Where to Eat<\/strong><\/p>\n [awesome-gallery id=6772] Meson del Pastor specialities created by chef Raquel Ferrer.<\/p><\/p>\n Meson del Pastor<\/a><\/p>\n Angela introduced us to Meson del Pastor as the place in town for local specialties. Raquel Ferrer is the second-generation chef for this very popular local restaurant run by her parents for over 30 years. \u201cWe try to keep the traditional cuisine while introducing new techniques,\u201d Ferrer said. She studied cooking at the School of Hospitality in Castellon and brought back with her many creative and forward-thinking ideas.<\/p>\n The restaurant, obviously popular with the locals and tourists, was packed on the day we had lunch there.<\/p>\n Some of the wonderful dishes that we tried were Croquetas Morellanas<\/em>, Crujiente de Manitas de Cerdo<\/em> (crunchy pork), Fideos Fritos con Setas de Cardo y foie<\/em> (fried noodles with mushrooms and liver), with grand Paletilla de cordero ternasco<\/em> (lamb shoulder).<\/p>\n We could not pack much more into this week of sampling what Valencia had to offer, but we did squeeze in two brief stops that you may want to check out:<\/p>\n [awesome-gallery id=6780] San Mateu scenes. Photos: C. Worthington<\/p><\/p>\n San Mateu<\/a><\/p>\n Iglesia Arciprestal Sant Mateu\u2014Sant Mateu Archiprestal Church with its hexagonal tower is quintessential San Mateu with is combination of Gothic and Romanesque architecture.<\/p>\n [awesome-gallery id=6786] Peniscola scenes. Photos: Valencia Tourism<\/p><\/p>\n Peniscola<\/strong>\nwww.peniscola.es\/<\/a><\/p>\n Peniscola is otherwise known as the \u201cGibraltar of Valencia.\u201d The Knights Templar built the 13th century castle there. The imposing castle became known as the Castell del Papa Luna after Pope Benedict XIII.<\/p>\n Where to Eat<\/strong><\/p>\n Casa Jaime<\/strong>\nAvinguda del Papa Luna, 5\n12598 Peniscola\nwww.casajaimepeniscola.com<\/a><\/p>\n Stop here for traditional cuisine of the area, including seafood and rice dishes.<\/p>\n Thalasso Hotel El Palasiet pool and patio overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Photo: Thalasso Hotel El Palasiet<\/p><\/div>\n Back to the Spa<\/strong><\/p>\n We had waited for this since we had arrived in Benicassim two days ago\u2014an afternoon of pampering and thalassotherapy<\/em> (Greek for \u201csea\u201d), which roughly interpreted means use of seawater and other marine products for therapeutic purposes. Sounded pretty good!<\/p>\n Thalasso Hotel El Palasiet<\/strong><\/p>\n The province of Castellon is known for its many natural mineral springs and medicinal waters. There are a number of designated \u201cSpa Town Resorts\u201d in the province.<\/p>\n Thalasso Hotel El Palasiet is a perfect place to combine a summer beach trip while staying in a classical mansion, boasting a state-of-the-art thalassotherapy center. The hotel has been developing the use of thalassotherapy as a medical treatment for over 40 years. The concept, of course, dates back thousands of years to Roman times and through the 19th and 20th centuries throughout Europe and other countries.<\/p>\n Nestled in a grove of pine trees, the hotel overlooks the Benicassim beach, which is just a two-minute walk away from a quiet corner.<\/p>\n [awesome-gallery id=6795] (Clockwise from top) Indoor salt water pool with water jets and whirlpools. Photo:\u00a0Thalasso Hotel El Palasiet. Lounging at and floating in the outdoor salt water pool. Photo: C. Worthington. Waterbeds in the pool. Photo:\u00a0Thalasso Hotel El Palasiet<\/p><\/p>\n For those who wish for a whole health evaluation and program, this service is offered. Or you can choose \u00e0 la carte spa treatments, such as a relaxing 40-minute massage, mud bath, shiatsu, foot reflexology sessions, and such services as facials, peels, and a \u201cfacial vitalift,\u201d described as a global age-defying treatment for mature skins that smooths wrinkles and eliminates puffiness.<\/p>\n The spa offer packages like the \u201cSlimming,\u201d a five-day one that includes medical and dietetic supervision, sessions of the phlebtic walking pool, hydro massage baths with algae, weight-training sessions, and more.<\/p>\n If you\u2019ve ever done circuit training in a gym, you may find the \u201cbiomarine circuit\u201d fun. You follow a timed program, starting with the spa\u2019s salt-water indoor pool, heated to 96.8 degrees Fahrenheit, followed by waterbeds in the pool, water jets to help with stiff necks and backs, a sauna, and whirlpool baths back in the pool.<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/healthyaging.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/Depositphotos_map-of-Spain-autonomous-communities-with-Valencia-Region-noted-750w.jpg\")
<\/a>
Deposit Photos<\/p><\/div>\nWhere Is The Region of Valencia?<\/h4>\n
Getting There<\/h4>\n
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<\/a>Gandia<\/h3>\n
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<\/a>Birthplace of Fideua, A Version of Paella<\/h4>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/healthyaging.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/paella-competition.750.jpg\")
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<\/a>Ducal Palace<\/h4>\n
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<\/a>Time to Head Up the Coast With Stops at a Monastery, Rice Fields and Albufera<\/h4>\n
First stop: Monasterio De Santa Maria<\/h4>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/healthyaging.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/cycling-is-way-of-life.750w.jpg\")
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<\/a><\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/healthyaging.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_8927-cyclists-group-ride-eating-lunch700.jpg\")
<\/a>By the time we finished checking out the monastery, the village square was jam-packed with colorful lycra-clad cyclists and fancy bikes everywhere. It\u2019s a scene we saw over and over again on this trip, and it reinforced my husband\u2019s point that cycling is one of the world\u2019s most popular sports and clearly here in Spain, as well.<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/healthyaging.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/Playa-El-Saler.-credit-Valencia-Tourism-750-w.jpg\")
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<\/a>These fields are painstakingly cultivated, in many cases by hand, by the farmers. We came upon two of them who looked more like corporate CEOs than farmers. They lifted themselves out of the bogs to have a chat. They were essentially weeding out the portions of the rice field that needed to be cut before the final harvest. They told us that they had been cutting the unwanted rice stalks since 7 a.m. It was now 2 p.m. \u201cAnd now we go to lunch!\u201d<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/healthyaging.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9056-rice-harvester.-and-now-we-go-to-lunch-500h.jpg\")
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<\/a>Lunch at last!<\/h4>\n
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<\/a>The City of Valencia: A Blend of Yesterday and Tomorrow<\/h4>\n
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<\/a>The Silk Exchange<\/h5>\n
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<\/a>Serrans Gate (Porta dels Serrans<\/em>)<\/h5>\n
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<\/a>La Casa Mas Estrecha<\/h5>\n
The Plaza of Almoina<\/h5>\n
Guided Tour Contact:\nJosep Alberola\njosepalberola@hotmail.com<\/a>\n667-219-717<\/h5>\n
Paella, Paella!<\/h4>\n
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<\/a><\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/healthyaging.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9248-Escuela-de-Arroces-y-Paella-with-students-1.jpg-500-1.jpg\")
<\/a>Held in a small backstreet bistro on Calle Obispo Don Jeronimo, we joined couples from Australia and France and also a young Sri-Lankan fellow in a day that started with selecting ingredients at the local market with our guide and ended with eating our own fully cooked paellas, salad, and free-flowing wine led by showman Chef Beni.<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/healthyaging.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9149-paprika-at-mercado-central-1.jpg-cropped-500w-1.jpg\")
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<\/a>City of Arts and Sciences<\/h4>\n
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<\/a> Opera house and performing arts center.\u00a0El Museu de les Ci\u00e8ncies Pr\u00edncipe Felipe, the science museum with its building designed to look like skeleton of whale. Museum visitors having a ball trying to balance. Entrance to dinosaur exhibit.[\/image-caption]<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/healthyaging.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9125-americas-cup-building..jpg\")
<\/a>The Port of\u00a0 Valencia<\/h4>\n
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<\/a>Where to Eat<\/h4>\n
La Maritima<\/h5>\n
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<\/a>More information about wineries in the area:\u00a0Terres dels Alforins<\/a><\/h5>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/healthyaging.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/20170907VUE061..Credit_ASO_Unipublic_PhotoGomezSport_Luis-Angel-G\u00f3mez-600w.jpg\")
<\/a>On to the Vuelta<\/h4>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/healthyaging.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9506-vuelta-start.jpg-500h.jpg\")
<\/a>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/healthyaging.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/Platja2_Benicassim-photo_Valencia-Tourism.-750w.jpg\")
<\/a>Benicassim – Beach Town and Start of La Vuelta Stage<\/h4>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/healthyaging.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/Fachada-Nocturna-El-Palasiet-750w.jpg\")
<\/a>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/healthyaging.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/Benicassim_viaverde-750-valencia-tourism.jpg\")
<\/a>Benicassim for Cyclists and Walkers<\/h4>\n
Spending the Day Following the Race<\/h4>\n
Our Final Day<\/h4>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/healthyaging.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/DSC_9321-morella-long-shot-750-w.jpg\")
<\/a>Morella<\/h4>\n
Two More Historic Cities to Not Miss<\/h4>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/healthyaging.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/Vistas-Panor\u00e1micas-hab.superior-750.jpg\")
<\/a>
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/healthyaging.net\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/10\/MG_7034.jpg-600.jpg\")
<\/a>