Fall in Love With San Sebastian, Spain—Day 3 of 4

By Carolyn Worthington

Day 3

Let’s change it up today by first visiting a local market and by heading a little out of town to Getaria where you can enjoy seafood specialties, pay a visit to a world-acclaimed fashion museum, experience a wine tasting, and lunch at a vineyard. Then, head back to San Sebastian and take a food tour.

Stroll Through the Food Markets

If you are like me, you will love to explore the local food markets to see what the farmers have brought to market.

Two to check out are La Bretxa and San Martin. La Bretxa has both the outdoor produce and many shops and stalls within the building. San Martin, originally built in 1884, is today a modern building refurbished in 2005, housing a combination of food markets and other stores.

You will find fish of all kinds, olive oils, freshly picked vegetables and locally prepared specialties to take out.

Visit Sea-Side Village of Getaria

Take the short half-hour drive to Getaria, the small coastal town west of San Sebastian. Or for more fun, take a boat from San Sebastian to this quaint fishing village.

This is the hometown of Juan Sebastian Elcano who is proudly claimed by the Basque as really the first man to circumnavigate the world. It’s now a dispelled myth that it was Magellan.

Although Magellan planned the expedition and set off with five ships, he met his demise in the Philippines where he became entwined in a local war and lost his life in 1521. Only three ships ultimately made it to the Pacific Ocean. One made it back to Spain, the Nao Victoria, captained by Juan Sebastian Elcano.

So, folks, time to update your history lesson. Magellan is out as the first one to circle the globe. Remember the name Juan Sebastian Elcano for trivia night.

Balenciaga Museum

Fashionistas, the Balenciaga Museum is a must stop on your tour.

If you know or wore the sack dress, the high waisted baby doll dress, or an empire dress, then you know or wore a Cristobal Balenciaga-inspired creation.

 

 

Before the sack dress was designed by Balenciaga in 1957, the typical dress style was a fitted bodice, narrow waist, and full skirt. Often, those full skirts were made possible by those itchy crinolines (those stiff poufy slips—anyone remember?).

As someone who was smitten with sewing back in the 60s, I felt like I was walking through a museum of clothes that had many of the design

elements I either wore or made. Fashionistas and anyone interested in fashion history and design will love to be lost and consumed in this museum.

Wander through the four floors of the museum, and you will see a magnificent display of Balenciaga’s classic designs.

I was mesmerized and impressed by the Balenciaga quality not generally seen today in ready to wear. His use of exquisite fabrics, signature lace, and bound buttonholes are on display. Gorgeous.

A Vineyard Tasting at Akarregi Txiki Txakolindegi—Olatu

Discover Txokoli (pronounced “Chock-o-lee”), the special wine of the Basque Country at Bodega Akarregi Txiki, a small winery that combines traditional and contemporary wine-making techniques, growing vines with passion for more than 45 years.

Sample this delicious, aromatic wine with its slight tones of the sea breeze picked up by the grapes grown on the high trellis system on the slopes of Gretaria.

Txokoli is a slightly sparking, very dry, acidic white wine. Best when drunk young, Txokoli is perfect as an aperitif especially with pintxos. The locals recommend pairing it with salty anchovies or tuna.

You will feel like you have gone to oenophile heaven when you arrive at Akarregi Txiki on the slopes of the town of Txakoli. This small family-owned-and-run winery opens their doors for wine tastings, guided tours, and lunch.

I was fortunate to be greeted by a vineyard tasting followed by lunch in the winery. The menu was filled with locally grown mini carrots, white asparagus, and garnishes of chive flowers. The mushroom soup paired with tear drop peas, grilled tuna with pine nuts, finished by a simple strawberry and mascarpone layered dessert was amazing.

Their trademark wine is Olatu in the blue bottle. The winemakers describe Olatu as a wine “that evokes the sea and coastal breeze” to be drunk young. Although the wine is limited in production, it can be savored here and is expected to be distributed in the U.S. in the future.

Back in San Sebastian

Fill your afternoon back in San Sebastian with a craft fair, a concert, a theatre play, or a food tour.

San Sebastian Food

If you would appreciate a guide to take you through the local food scene, San Sebastian Food might be appealing. Located near old town and within the elegant Hotel Maria Cristina building, San Sebastian Food offers wine tastings, cooking classes, and tours of local food markets.

Dinner at Ni Neu

One of the most spectacular views of San Sebastian is from the hillside perch of the restaurant Ni Neu. Chef Mikel Gallo is at the helm of Ni Neu, overlooking the Zurriola Bridge and the sea below.

The elegant and thoughtful menu prepared by Chef Gallo is filled with local ingredients and served with flair. The cuisine is a cross between a classic bistro and haute cuisine.

I sampled tuna tartar served with an avocado cream, Iberian port carpaccio with a nutty vinaigrette, crispy cod with a celery mayonnaise, and slices of roasted lamb served on a bed of shaved irati sheep’s milk cheese. All of this was followed up by spectacular desserts of caramelized French toast, topped with ice cream and a flavored Fuji apple served with a fresh cheese ice cream.

Make sure to put this restaurant on your list. Get a good night’s sleep for tomorrow we go to the sea!